Tsubaki opened in Echo Park earlier this year, and Osen Izakaya followed in its wake in Silver Lake. RBTA seems to be part of a recent of wave of new izakayas in L.A. It's worth mentioning that, while the plates may be small, the grilled dishes don't skimp on the portions the meats come in sizable chunks, which not only sates your hunger, but also highlights the balance between the grilled exteriors and the soft bounty that's found inside.Īlso, if your throat's a little parched from all the indulging, RBTA has a small-but-focused roster of sake, shochu, and crisp beers to complete the experience. The ribeye skewers are also wonderfully supple, attesting to the slow and meditated burn of the grill, and the king oyster mushrooms are meaty and formidable. The savory coating is cooked to a point where it's almost a second skin. For a classic yakitori take, you can turn to the negi ma (chicken skewers), which are rendered moist and tender. Of course, we were also treated to the wonders of the robata grill. And if you're in the market for even more gonads, the plate of uni pasta reaches an apex of richness that almost feels illicit. While the hamachi starred on its own, the blue prawn sashimi was dressed with uni and slices of cucumber, giving us a bite that was at once light and substantial. Both sides of the menu espouse a sense of simplicity, but are also imbued with Baey's many whims.ĭuring our visit, one of our favorites was the hamachi (yellowtail) sashimi that rested on a bed of blood orange ponzu-the hint of citrus played well with the savory draw of the sauce. For one thing, the grilled small plates are suffused with the smokey scent of the charcoal (the charcoal was imported from Japan, we're informed), and the non-grilled items are exceedingly fresh and fragrant. While the thesis covers a wide range, there's a kind of singular spirit to the menu at RBTA. There's a heavy Japanese influence, of course, but it's not entirely traditional I wanted to bring a fun take," Baey told LAist. "It's based on my experiences in my travels. It just came together so fast."Īs Baey explained to LAist, the idea was for a pan-Asian menu that centered around the Japanese izakaya. We didn't have to think too hard about the concept. "Justin's been kind of a hired gun for me," Tewasart told LAist. Later, after linking up with restaurateur David Tewasart, Baey would work on the menus for both Sticky Rice (the Grand Central Market staple) and Side Chick (the much talked-about purveyor of Hainan chicken).Īs such, Baey has a long history of being a side-player (the kitchen's George Harrison, if you will), but RBTA shines the spotlight exclusively on the chef. he'd serve stints at both Ricardo Zarate's Mo-Chica and Picca-the latter spot being the restaurant where he got acquainted with the robata. RBTA, named for the robata grill that exists in the heart of the kitchen, is the brainchild of chef Justin Baey, a Singaporean national who's seen his share of kitchens. The vibe at RBTA is a little frenetic, a little boozy, and the mindset is one of instant gratification. The prevailing atmosphere here is one of a tucked-away stand in Tokyo’s famed Shoube Yokochou Alley, also affectionately known as "piss alley" (we doubt the tourism board was responsible for this one). "Cozy" isn't quite the right word for it, however, what with the industrial bulbs hanging over head, and the file of passersby at the front window, some of whom will glance at you expectantly as if hoping for some sign of your opinion on the place (FYI, we're having a perfectly good time). The space is akin to a railroad apartment, in which you have to pass through the separate compartments to get to where you need to be. The first impression of Highland Park's RBTA, the neighborhood's new izakaya, is that it's a tad narrow.
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